Active Relaxation

Rijeka City Tour – Life flows in Rijeka, on its hills and beaches, in the harbour and through the historic center. Yet, there’s one place where energy flows more intensely – the Korzo, the pedestrian street in the heart of the city. In the morning, outdoor cafés are packed with locals having coffee, and discussing the day ahead. Ana Marija, a Rijeka local, describes the atmosphere ‘Along the Korzo you’ll see groups of friends, families catching up, even business meetings. Every decision in Rijeka is taken here – with a coffee.’

In the evening, the place remains as lively as ever - cocktails and glasses of wine replace coffee, while the tangerine sunset lights caresses the shiny pavement stones.

Wandering through the historic center, you may indeed notice that Rijeka is a true crossroads of people and cultures. You’ll see grandiose Habsburg buildings, faded Italian signs on walls and façades, functional Socialist buildings, ruins of a Roman city, and even a faux-Venetian palazzo.

You’ll also hear several languages, bouncing off Neoclassic walls of the palazzos lining the Korzo. Croatian, of course, but also German, English, Spanish, spoken by the many tourists and expats that call Rijeka home, drawn by its ideal climate and slow lifestyle. Yet, there’s a language that you’ll hear more than others – Italian. Between the first and the second World War, the town was under Italian rule and was known as Fiume – at that time, more than half of the city’s population was Italian. Most have left after WW2, but a small community of Fiumani (Italian-speaking people) still lives in the city.

If you’re intrigued, we highly recommend exploring with a guide. A Rijeka city tour is a true rollercoaster ride between shifting borders, dominations and name changes, which reaches up to the modern day.

In the words of our guide Danilo, whose family has been calling Rijeka home for generations, “My grandparents were Austrian. My parents were Italian. Myself and my wife were born in Jugoslavia, while my children were born in Croatia”. Four different nationalities, in just four generations. Rijeka is a place where borders have shifted constantly, which may lead one to wonder what nationality (and nationalism) really means.

If history is not your thing, Rijeka is also full of unusual attractions – like a tunnel crossing the historic center from side to side, once part of an Italian-built anti air-raid shelter. Or Kružna Ulica, aka ‘Circle Street’, a tiny backstreet covered in colorful street art.

Food in Rijeka – Let’s try something different. Follow the flow of the city, and let’s see where that leads you. You’ll end up in the Korzo, for sure, and the temptation to while the day away with a coffee may be strong – but keep going.

Sooner or later, you’ll find yourself in Placa, the daily market. Fruit and vegetables are sold from stalls, from local farmers to consumers. Depending on the season you’ll find stacks of figs and peaches, glistening peppers and aubergines, saucer-sized mushrooms, and more.

Separate halls house the meat, dairy and small goods sections, but the real marvel is the fish market, built in 1916 in Art Nouveau style. On the bottom floor are the vendors, with the day’s catch laid on beds of crushed ice, with pillars decorated with sea creatures all around.

All locals will tell you that here is where you find the best food in town. So, get yourself a pair of shiny sea bass, or some thick, red tuna steaks, and pick your favourite vegetables to go with it – maybe some zucchini, or a simple tomato salad.

Do you prefer eating out? With so much excellent fish on offer, it comes as no surprise that Rijeka’s cuisine is mainly seafood based. You’ll notice a clear Italian influence, with risotto and homemade pasta on every menu – for something truly local, opt for brudet, a tomato-based fish stew served over polenta, or buzara, scampi and shellfish cooked with olive oil, wine, garlic and breadcrumbs. This was traditionally a fishermen’s meal, so feel free to eat with your hands!

A great place for a meal is Konoba Girica, about 10 minutes drive from the center, mainly frequented by locals. This restaurant is well known because it has a small fish market right next door, giving diners the opportunity to shop for their own meal. Another option is Konoba Nebuloza, right on the banks of the Rijecina River – here the ambience is a little more elegant, perfect for a special occasion.

Hiking in Rijeka/Trsat – Ask Rijeka locals, and almost without fail they’ll agree that their hometown is a wonderful place to live. ‘I was born in Dalmatia’ said Davor, a hiking guide. ‘But I choose Rijeka to be my home, because of nature. I don’t know of another place where you have beaches, mountains, forests, and islands, all so close’.

Even if you’re visiting for just a few days, don’t miss the chance to go for a short hike, finding yourself immersed in nature just a couple of kilometers from the city center.

You may start climbing the 500-or so steps staircase leading up to Trsat, a 13th century fortress located on a hill overlooking Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. Nearby you’ll find a small votive church, visited by pilgrims who sometimes climb the staircase on their knees. As you make your way up the hill, try to absorb the sacred atmosphere of these steps, shrouded in hopes and prayers. Give yourself time to reflect, as you admire Rijeka lying before you, from the walls of Trsat Castle. Let your thoughts flow, observe them without judging.

Then, it’s time to head deep into nature. A downhill path will lead you to a canyon where you can visit a ruined paper mill, a relic of the heyday of industrial Rijeka. It’s the ideal place to observe nature’s transformative power. Trees were cut down to erect these walls; the energy of water was harnessed to power the mill, until a fire burned it down in 1907. A hundred years later, the structure is slowly been reclaimed by vegetation, with ivy and moss climbing over the crumbling walls.

Continue through the forest at the bottom of the canyon, proceeding slowly and observing with all five senses. Notice the crunch of leaves underfoot, and how tender earth gives way to stony paths. Appreciate the thousand shades of green, and learn how to distinguish different types of plants – in spring, it’s a local tradition to pick wild asparagus, a local delicacy.

As you continue uphill out of the canyon, you’ll come across another relic of Rijeka’s history – bunkers dating back from WW2, some yet unfinished and perfectly camouflaged by vegetation, their existence revealed only by cold drafts of air coming through the rocks.

This is just one of many hiking opportunities around Rijeka. If you fancy a longer escapade, plan a trip to Učka, a 1400-meter high peak of the Dinaric Alps, located where Istria meets the Kvarner Gulf. There are countless hiking opportunities around the mountain, from sea-to-summit all day outings to shorter excursions.

If you are still up for a walk, continue to the harbor and follow the length of Molo Longo, the 1.5 km-long pier marking its entrance. Stand for a second at the very end of the pier, with loading cranes towering in the distance, and water shimmering all around you.

In the flowing soul of this city, find yourself immersed in a vortex of energy. Let it drive you; allow it to absorb the fibers of your being. Scan your body, and listen to your mind. Then, take this feeling back home with you.