Back to the future

Discovering Košice’s brewing past – No trip to Slovakia is complete without plenty of beer, the country’s favorite beverage. In the heart of Košice you’ll find Pivovar Hostinec, a historic brewery that holds two impressive records – it’s the oldest pub in Slovakia, operating since 1542 in one of the last-remaining buildings in the historic center, and it once hosted the largest wedding in Europe.

There is even a beer dedicated to the event – BB Love, with the two B standing for Brandeburská and Bethlen, the two important houses joined in this grand marriage, which attracted thousands of guests from across Europe.

You’ll be learning all about the wedding (plus a lot more!) on one of Hostinec’s beer tours. The experience starts with some historical background – by the way, did you know that beer is the oldest fermented beverage, predating wine by several millennia? The guide will also share an overview of the brewing process, and take you on a walk through the original Medieval cellars, where a real treasure was discovered during renovation. The tour will conclude with a beer tasting straight from the fermentation vats, to experience beer in all its different fermentation stages.

Urbex + Street Art – The great majority of Košice visitors spend their time in the quaint historic center, between cobbled alleyways and grandiose plazas. Very few people make it to the Socialist-built districts in the outskirts of the city, brightly painted in vivid colors like a concrete Cinque Terre of sorts.

Over the last few years, these neighborhoods have got even more colorful thanks to OMG – Open Mural Gallery, an urban art project that included the creation of 30 large-scale murals by world-famous artists.

Igor from Local Nomads organizes an alternative tour through the outskirts of Košice, starting with a drive through Socialist neighborhoods with stops to see some of the most impressive murals.

After that, Igor will drive you to an abandoned industrial complex. With reflective vests on, and helmets on hand, it’s time to start an urban exploration experience through the ruins of Košice’s industrial past. You’ll be hiking across a post-apocalyptic scenario, used as a set for music videos by Slovak bands, before reaching a 13-story abandoned silo, which will be the focus of the group’s exploration.

Lovers of dystopian vibes will truly be in paradise here. It’s necessary to watch where you go – there are gaping holes in the floor, crumbling walls, plaster and metal everywhere. This place is an empty canvas, allowing you to interpret what you wish, to create your own present over the relics of a not-to-distant past.

You may opt to climb 13 floors to the roof of the building, from where you can get a view of Košice’s Socialist neighborhoods and of the steel factory, still the largest employer in town.

If you wish to exercise your creativity further, on the ground floor of the building you can find what Igor described as a ‘writer’s playground’. Stencils and spray paint will be on hand – just find an empty wall, and leave your own mark in this unique part of Košice’s collective modern history.

Back to the Neolithic, Nyzna Mysla – Leave the city behind and travel to the Neolithic at Nižná Myšľa, a sleepy town just south of Košice, known for its archaeological site and museum. The entire enterprise is almost entirely run by volunteers, and what it lacks in terms of flashy exhibits it makes up for in passion. The tour starts in the museum, where a volunteer will take you through a series os archaeological findings including pottery, jewellery, tools and some beautiful children’s toys – a wheeled cart and some animal-shaped statuettes, a Bronze-age version of what you find in a modern toy store.

Right next door, in a room at the end of a museum, you’ll see skeletons on display – some arranged in truly intricate poses, believed to be remains of ritual sacrifices. Guides are on hand to reveal more about rituals and religion in the Neolithic, but be warned, some details are really hard to stomach!

After touring the museum, you can visit the actual archeological site, a short drive away. The site includes the reproduction of Neolithic huts and a double defense wall. There is also a pottery oven, giving visitors the chance to join a Bronze Age pottery workshop, and take home a truly unique souvenir.

Those who want to play Indiana Jones for a bit can try doing some digging. You guide will show how, and will be there to direct in case you do find something – who knows, you may help unearth the next Rosetta Stone!

Medieval life – Košice Castle is truly one of a kind, for two reasons. First of all, not much of it is left. The castle was never completed, and over the years some of its stones have been removed to construct other buildings. Second, very little is known about the castle itself. When and why it was built remains a secret – which may lead people to decide it’s probably not worth visiting.

Guess what – there’s nothing further from the truth. Thanks to a group of volunteers led by the unstoppable Lubos, it’s possibly to have an immersive Medieval experience, including a selection of workshops and experiences.

First of all, everyone will get into full Medieval costume, complete of shoes. Lubos will start by taking you on a walk across the castle, and up to the observation tower from where you can get a bird’s eye view of what would have been the largest castle in Slovakia, if it ever were completed.

Just one word of warning – if you ask question about historic details, the answer will be ‘I have no idea’, without a fail. So, take this opportunity to forget about facts, and imagine your own Medieval story. Visit the Medieval garden for a stroll, surrounded by flowers and bumblebees. Help making a meal cooked on an open fire, help the blacksmith craft tools, or take a crash-course in Medieval fighting techniques. Sword, bow or spear, that’s up to you!

Retro Train – Košice is home to the last Children’s Railway in Slovakia. Once popular throughout Soviet and Eastern European countries, Children’s Railways were established to teach railway professions to children, and to promote values like teamwork and community.

Children still carry out all railway duties, with the exception of train driver, ticketing and station manager, which are adults. The railway covers a distance of 4.2 km, from Čermeľ station just outside the city to Alpinka, a popular location for nature excursions and picnics.

The journey only takes 20 minutes – if possible, try visiting during the weekend, when steam engines are in operation.

Escape to the Countryside – Visiting the countryside during weekends is a popular pastime all over Europe, but in Slovakia and other former Socialist countries it has a deeper meaning. For people under constant fear of being reported to the secret police, nature became a way to truly escape – not just from the stress of everyday life, but also from the threat of being seen and heard doing the wrong thing.

In the words of local guide Lubos “in the countryside, we could truly be ourselves”. Times have changed now, but these weekend nature escapades are still part of the life of many Slovakians.

You are also invited to leave Košice for a day, and experience ‘village life’ in the countryside. Depending on your interests and preferences, there are many activities available – you could visit a farmhouse in the early morning to learn how cheese is made, go river rafting, or hike to a viewpoint where a beautiful karst valley opens before your eyes, on the edge of a forest.

Regardless of what activities you opt for, you’ll have the chance to experience Slovak hospitality. Elderly people may invite you in for a shot of slivovitza, a local plum liqueur, a slice of homemade cake, or just a chat.

However, don’t fill yourself up too much, as lunch will also be with a local family and include more treats such as soup made with home-grown vegetables, palacinka (pancakes) with jam and cream, and more.

Spend the rest of the day doing what you wish – helping out in the garden, doing some painting or other small maintenance jobs. It’s also possible to spend the night in the countryside, sleeping under the stars surrounded by the sounds of nature.

Even with just one day, you’ll have the chance to slow down and appreciate values that are often lost in our busy modern lives. Values that are, indeed, part of who we are, regardless of where we come from. Who knows, perhaps nature is still the place where we can truly be ourselves.